The UK has been identified as the leading consumer of clothes per head in Europe, yet it is failing to adequately support the reuse and recycling sector to find new markets for used textiles.
This has raised concerns, particularly with WRAP (Waste and Resources Action Programme) about the low quality of fast fashion items and the potential cost strains for secondhand clothing stores that are driving business sustainability.
What were the findings in the WRAP 2024 report?
WRAP’s latest Textiles Market Situation Report highlighted some startling statistics. In 2022, the UK purchased 1.42 million tonnes of textiles but discarded 1.45 million tonnes. Consequently, over 700,000 tonnes of post-consumer textiles end up in residual black bins and general waste at Household Waste Recycling Centres (HWRCs).
The report reveals that, on average, individuals in the UK discard 35 items of clothing into general waste streams each year. This equates to around 49% of the textiles used by people in the UK being thrown away rather than being recycled or reused. According to WRAP, 84% of these discarded textiles are incinerated for energy recovery, while 11% are sent to landfill.
Chief Executive of WRAP, Harriet Lamb, has emphasised the urgent need for change. She highlighted that society is purchasing too many new items and simultaneously putting too many clothes into the bin, meaning they are finding their way to landfills or incinerators. Harriet urged people to give these items to charity shops that rely on the income, repairing, sharing, or selling on e-commerce platforms before considering the bin.
Industry warnings and cost strains for the secondhand clothing market
The report indicates that the UK’s textile consumption levels are now nearing pre-Covid levels, leading the country to consume more clothes per head than any other European nation. Despite this high consumption, most textiles end up as general waste. Additionally, even the textiles that reach reuse and recycling businesses are of lower quality and cost than before.
WRAP’s findings show a significant decline in the value of recovered textiles from textile banks and charities. The value has dropped from £406 (per tonne from textile banks) and £432 (per tonne from charity shops) a decade ago to £172 and £255, respectively. This reduction in value, attributed to the increase in fast fashion items, has made it challenging for businesses in the sector, leading to higher operational costs and lower profits.
The global impact of fast fashion and proposed solutions
Recent research from Remake World highlights the global impact of fast fashion waste, which often ends up in landfills or incinerators, particularly affecting countries in the Global South, such as Chile and Ghana. These countries lack the resources and support necessary to manage this waste effectively.
WRAP is urging the UK to enhance textile donation efforts through textile banks, charity shops, retail takeback schemes, and online preloved marketplaces. The organisation also calls for brands and retailers to fund the reuse sector and design clothes for durability as part of a circular economy.
Chief Executive of the Textiles Recycling Association, Alan Wheeler has said that the quality of fashion is declining while the mass of textile products put on the market is increasing. He also shared we are in a situation where the global used textile sector is in a dire state. Their warehouses are full, collections are halting, demand in global markets is disrupted, and there are significant trade drops.
Moreover, there has been news of layoffs and potential closures frequently. Wheeler emphasised the need for serious interventions and support from both government and industry through policies such as Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), product standards, and minimum recycled content in new products.
Key takeaways
The WRAP 2024 report underscores a pressing issue: the UK leads Europe in clothing consumption per capita but falls short in supporting textile reuse and recycling. With 1.45 million tonnes of textiles discarded annually and over 700,000 tonnes ending up in general waste, the situation is dire.
The secondhand market is strained by the low quality of fast fashion items, significantly reducing the value of recovered textiles, leading to higher operational costs and lower profits. It’s clear action is urgently needed and this goes beyond just increasing support for reuse and recycling sectors but altering consumer behaviour globally.
